The fuel pressure tester can easily diagnose faulty components in the vehicle’s fuel system if you have a car. The fuel pressure tester should be a must for every owner. It is not a device that shows if the pressure in the fuel tank is correct. A fuel injector is only a nozzle and a valve; it still requires a pump to inject the fuel into the engine. 1 Determine which fuel injector your Toyota Tacoma will need. This depends not only on the make and model, but also the engine size. Models made before 2005 may have a 2.4L, 2.7L or 3.4L engine.

• Fuel Pressure Regulator
• Tacoma 3.4 Fuel Pressure Test Kit Autozone
• Tacoma 3.4 Fuel Pressure Test Diagram

Does your car emit a thick, dark smoke, or some oil, from the tailpipe? Has its mileage dropped? A bad fuel pressure regulator can be the reason for these problems. The fuel injection system in the car must supply fuel to the car engine with a constant optimal pressure.A spring inside the pressure regulator pushes against the diaphragm and helps regulate the pressure inside it. The tension (pressure) in the spring is preset by the manufacturer to get the desired fuel pressure.The fuel pump has to push enough fuel at the critical pressure to overcome the spring tension.

The additional fuel that is not needed is sent back to the fuel tank through the fuel return line. To find out where the fuel pressure indicator is, you need to follow the fuel rail around the car engine. The fuel rail is a pipe that carries fuel to the injectors and to the cold start valve in the engine. The cylindrical metallic object connected to the fuel rail is the fuel pressure regulator, which is the last component of the engine that is supplied with fuel.It has a vacuum hose attached to it. The vacuum in the regulator provides the extra pressure against the spring. Due to this vacuum hose, when the vehicle is in an idle condition, there is less pressure against the fuel coming inside the regulator. When the vehicle accelerates, the fuel entering the regulator increases.

This is how the fuel requirement in the engine is served accordingly. Fuel pressure regulators do not fail all that often. However, if they do fail, then it may result in low fuel pressure.

Mostly, the diaphragm develops a leakage and the fuel enters the vacuum hose. This may lead to various kinds of problems in the engine.The pressure in the regulator can be checked by pinching the fuel return line. If the pressure in it does not rise after pinching the fuel return pipe, it means there is a loss of pressure. A sufficient fuel pressure is not built inside the regulator.You will also notice black smoke and oil coming from the exhaust (implying rich engine running). When the engine of the car is turned off, the fuel pressure drops.

Regrading this thread:1996 4Runner, 3.4L V6Long issue about not starting when warm, can someone, anyone verify what fuel rail pressure they get when cranking the engine, either by disconnecting the coil packs so it won't start or by just kicking the starter a few times so it'll spin but not quite start.We get 21psi, and am just about ready to go buy a fuel pump.but would GREATLY appreciate any firsthand pressure values.I think any vehicle with the 3.4L V6 would give us valid numbers.Can anyone check/remember fuel rail pressures?Thanks a ton!Mark. Do you need that ECT sensor?By the way, I did that trick with the fuel pump jumper wires, completely took care of my issue.Here is your answer to your spec question.Your starting psi's, if your measurements are accurate, are 50% of what it should be regardless of being hot or cold. With the pressure regulator hose disconnected, you should see 38-44psi's at idle. 33-37 at idle with the regulator hooked into the system.So, that would explain your issue I think. Now what is causing that is a different story BUT the FSM should walk you through it AND that link has the entire FSM on it for both the 22re and the v6. I believe it is the same link as what is in the Facts section.

Fuel Pressure Regulator

Wahoo!!!After many hours of back breaking work (we are doing this in a campground remember), we got the new fuel pump in with the spliced in wires and all that.and started it up and not only did it start, the fuel gauge we put on the fuel rail showed 42-43psi, it has NEVER shown that high when running. It would appear all symptoms are gone and it was either (or both) the wiring to the fuel pump (forsure) or the pump was drawing too much current and caused the wiring problem, but in either case, it appears to all be fixed.We did notice another odd thing today, the pressure quickly jumps to 42psi when you crank the engine, which is great, but as soon as you shut it off it immediately drops to zero. Which is actually not right, and it did not do that before (it was at a lower pressure but would hold it for quite some time, and would actually climb to about 40psi with the gas expanding and all that).so that's frustrating and I think the fuel pressure regulator is sposeto hold that pressure (it's not actually the pump holding that pressure is it?), and the FPR is brand new.so we'll look at that later, but doesn't matter alot since it will start up without alot of problems, sometimes have to push the gas pedal down a bit, but always starts.

We contemplated leaving the old pump in there since the wiring looked like the problem, but that would have been stupid, even for us after how much work that was to get the tank out.Mucho Gracias for all the help.and Silverton, CO is a blast. Update: The fuel pressure dropping to zero right after shutting it off has ceased. After a few e-mails back and forth to Gadget Online (dude with super knowledge about fuel systems on the 3.4L V6, he installs supercharges on them, etc), he said the pressure is held by a checkvalve on the end of the pump, so if the pressure is not holding (and it's not a injector issue) it's probably that checkvalve. However, after a day of driving the pressure is now holding and the 4runner starts beautifully (i.e. I seem to have a similar problem. 1996 4Runner V6. It starts fine in the morning but when driven and after a few stops it cranks but won't fire.

Tacoma 3.4 Fuel Pressure Test Kit Autozone

After replacing my starter(it was going bad anyway) and spark plugs and a dealer that can't diagnose it. My key suspects are the ECT sensor and the fuel pump. So I wanted to ask if replacing the ECT sensor had any effect. I also wanted to ask where that sensor is and what it took to change it.

Tacoma 3.4 Fuel Pressure Test Diagram

My mechanics manual doesn't show where it is and Toyota parts dealer pretends not to know what I am talking about. I also wanted to ask where the bad wiring was on the fuel pump. Was it outside the tank or inside the tank? Thanks for any help here. I seem to have a similar problem.

1996 4Runner V6. It starts fine in the morning but when driven and after a few stops it cranks but won't fire. Free domestic violence curriculum. After replacing my starter(it was going bad anyway) and spark plugs and a dealer that can't diagnose it.

My key suspects are the ECT sensor and the fuel pump. So I wanted to ask if replacing the ECT sensor had any effect. I also wanted to ask where that sensor is and what it took to change it. My mechanics manual doesn't show where it is and Toyota parts dealer pretends not to know what I am talking about. I also wanted to ask where the bad wiring was on the fuel pump.

Was it outside the tank or inside the tank? Thanks for any help here. I don't remember anything about the ECT, but the wire that was bad was inside the tank. It was the 12' long piece that went from the tank connector down to the pump. The plastic connector where it clipped into the pump was partially melted away and the wire had clearly gotten hot and was brittle, missing insulation. We spliced (soldered) a new wire for that part and a new blade-style slide-on connector (if doing this pay attention to which wire goes where on the pump since if you ditch the plastic connector entirely you don't have anything that tells you what wire goes where) onto the pump.Interesting though as when I wrote this I was doing this work on a friend's '96 4runner, I also have a '96 4runner but mine was fine. Now years later, he has long since sold his and I have had some fuel issues with mine.

The last time I had the tank out to replace the fuel pump I did this same mod on my wires going to the fuel pump because I wasn't happy with how weak the electrical connection was to the pump, even though mine wasn't melted but the actual metal contact parts still looked oxidized and did not have much spring left in them. Was it causing the pump to not get enough power? Not sure, but it sucks a$$ to drop that tank repeatedly by yourself (I've done it a few times), so I was doing as much as I could while in there.Good luck.